How Far is India in the Race of having Michelin Star Restaurant?

Currently, India does not have its own edition of the celebrated French fine-dining Michelin Guide, which is a notable absence in the country’s gastronomic landscape. Michelin stars, an emblem of culinary excellence, are awarded to restaurants, not to individual chefs. This distinction is crucial as it places the emphasis on the overall dining experience provided by the establishment rather than solely on the person behind the menu. Consequently, without a Michelin Guide dedicated to Indian eateries, it is unlikely that any restaurant in India will secure a Michelin Star in the near future.

Gaining a Michelin star is a dream many restaurant owners and chefs across the globe cherish. This accolade not only signifies the peak of dining excellence but also serves as a testament to the skills and creativity of the teams that drive these esteemed kitchens. However, the lack of a Michelin Guide in India casts a shadow over the possibility of Indian restaurants achieving this prestigious recognition.

The Michelin Guide, which is an integral part of a global restaurant rating system managed by the French tire manufacturer Michelin, evaluates dining establishments based on the quality and consistency of their culinary offerings. Since its inception in 1900, the guide has evolved from a manual offering practical information for motorists—including maps and details on restaurants and fuel stations along their routes—to a comprehensive evaluator of gastronomic quality.

In its current form, the Michelin Guide provides concise and insightful reviews of restaurants, employs unique symbols to denote various levels of service and quality, and ranks establishments with up to three Michelin stars. These stars are highly coveted and are awarded to restaurants demonstrating culinary prowess and consistency that meet stringent standards set by Michelin's anonymous inspectors. The guide currently spans more than 36 culinary hotspots around the world, including regions in North America, South America, Europe, and the Asia Pacific.

Despite its rich and diverse culinary heritage that draws from centuries-old traditions and regional flavours, India is yet to be included in the Michelin Guide's expansive coverage. This exclusion means that India’s myriad gastronomic delights and the chefs who craft them remain unrecognised by one of the world's most prestigious culinary accolades, underscoring a significant gap in the global culinary recognition of Indian cuisine.

Obtaining a Michelin star requires the establishment of a refined dining venue, where the focus is not only on the quality of the food but also on the overall dining experience. Most restaurants that earn a Michelin star tend to be upscale, often becoming more expensive due to their use of premium ingredients and commitment to delivering exceptional hospitality. While top chefs in India regard Michelin stars as the ultimate accolade in the culinary world, it's important to remember that these stars are awarded to restaurants, not individual chefs.

The process for awarding Michelin stars involves multiple visits by anonymous Michelin inspectors who assess each restaurant meticulously. The anonymity of these inspectors is crucial as it ensures that the evaluations are unbiased and genuine, with restaurant staff unaware of the inspector's presence and identity.

The Michelin Guide's selection criteria are rigorous and multifaceted, encompassing:

The quality of the ingredients used,

The mastery of flavor and cooking techniques,

The ability to reflect the chef’s personality within the dining experience,

The harmonious balance and blending of flavors,

Consistency of the dining experience across visits by different inspectors.

Restaurants are evaluated annually, and their star ratings and listings in the guide are updated to reflect current standards. Establishments that do not maintain the requisite level of quality risk being removed from the guide.

Despite the absence of a Michelin Guide in India, Indian chefs globally continue to garner recognition and win Michelin stars, showcasing the appeal and excellence of Indian cuisine on the world stage. Notably, in 2023, several Indian chefs at restaurants in the United States achieved this prestigious honor. Chef Chetan Shetty led Rania in Washington DC, Chef Vijaya Kumar headed Semma in New York City, and Chef Sujan Sarkar ran Indienne in Chicago, each earning a Michelin star for their outstanding culinary contributions. These accolades underline the global stature and adaptability of Indian culinary arts, reflecting the skills of Indian chefs who masterfully present traditional flavors in a manner that resonates with an international audience.

Michelin does not cover the entire globe with its guides. Initially, up until 2006, its coverage was predominantly in Europe, after which it expanded to include New York. Over the years, Michelin has extended its reach to include several key global cities and regions such as Japan, major U.S. cities like New York, Chicago, San Francisco, and Washington DC, as well as Rio de Janeiro/São Paulo, Hong Kong/Macau, Singapore, Seoul, Shanghai, and Bangkok. “As a commercial entity, Michelin's decisions on where to introduce guides are driven by its own commercial interests as part of a marketing strategy for its tire business. This approach has led to the discontinuation of guides that do not meet sales expectations, such as those for Las Vegas and Los Angeles in 2008/2009. Additionally, Michelin has started accepting sponsorship from tourist boards to launch guides in places like Bangkok, Seoul, and Singapore. While there is potential for a future guide in India, possibly sponsored by the Indian Tourist Board, no concrete plans are in place,” as commented by a London based Restaurant Critic, Andy Hayler. 

In London, several Indian restaurants, including Jamavar, Tamarind, Benares, Quilon, Trishna, and Gymkhana, have earned Michelin stars, showcasing the global appreciation for Indian cuisine. This recognition extends to other places like Song of India in Singapore and Campton Place in San Francisco.

Jake Kosseff, a Sommelier & Restaurateur from Seattle, notes that Michelin has not yet decided to publish a "green" guide for India or any of its cities. The process of rating restaurants for Michelin is intricate and resource-intensive, hence the limited geographical coverage of the green guides.

A chef from Mumbai, preferring to remain anonymous, pointed out that Michelin (company that hosts Michelin Star) has a minor market share in India's tire industry and has not been among the top ten since 2011. The market dynamics suggest that it's unlikely the Michelin Guide will focus on India soon. The chef further mentioned that the format of authentic Indian cuisine, from its culinary traditions to portion sizes, does not align well with Michelin’s criteria. Except for a few high-end hotel restaurants, standalone Indian eateries have not adopted the global elements that Michelin typically looks for in its star-rated establishments, resulting in only eight Michelin-starred Indian restaurants worldwide.

Michelin's selective geographic expansion is influenced by its commercial interests and market dynamics, which currently exclude India from its prestigious dining guides. However, Indian cuisine continues to gain international acclaim, as evidenced by the Michelin stars awarded to Indian restaurants globally, showcasing its culinary prowess beyond its borders.